The takeout staple is so popular that it now has its very own tasting trail.
Springfield, Missouri, has always been at a crossroads. Headquarters to Bass Pro Shops and home of Missouri State University, the Show-Me-State’s third-largest city straddles historic Route 66, is situated along the Trail of Tears, and not quite south nor west, but somewhere all its own in between. There’s a thriving arts scene, terrific museums, and many opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts, including kayaking, spelunking, and biking.
Springfield also has an unexpected culinary claim to fame. It’s the birthplace of a beloved takeout classic: cashew chicken.
The unctuous, satisfying fare has long been a staple on Chinese restaurant menus across the country. Who among us hasn’t devoured it straight from the takeout carton? It turns out the creation was first cooked up more than six decades ago at a Springfield tea house. The story of how cashew chicken came to represent a different sort of crossroads: a fusion of family lore, American and Chinese culture, and a generous dash of kitchen ingenuity.
An Immigrant’s Journey
David Leong’s path to becoming a legendary restauranteur wasn’t a clear, straight line. In 1940, he left his home in southern China and immigrated to the United States in search of better opportunities. He became a naturalized citizen and was drafted during World War II. Leong survived D-Day, returned to his new country immediately after the war, and began cooking in establishments along the East Coast.
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A chance encounter in Florida changed everything.
Dr. John Tsang was vacationing in Pensacola and ate at the restaurant where Leong worked. The Missouri surgeon—who also originally hailed from China—so enjoyed what he sampled that he offered to set the talented chef up with his own place in Springfield. Chinese food was tough to come by there, and Tsang thought the region was ready for it.
It wasn’t easy. The racism experienced by Leong and his family was real and dangerous. Just days before the 350-seat Leong’s Tea House was set to launch in 1963, someone threw dynamite at the restaurant, blowing out several walls. Determined to succeed despite the attack, Leong quickly fixed the damage, opening his doors a few weeks later.
He knew full well that the quickest way to the heart is through the stomach. Leong doubled down and focused on winning over the locals through his food.
“A lot of people didn’t know what Chinese food was,” recalls Ling Leong, David Leong’s son, and the manager of the restaurant. “They were afraid to try it. The only things they knew were chop suey and chow mein.”
It was then that Leong realized a little bit of familiarity might bring more customers through the door. Fried chicken was a popular choice and served across the city; perhaps a new take on the old Ozarks comfort food would appeal more widely.
The innovative chef experimented with a recipe that linked his Cantonese roots with deep-fried American tastes. Once perfected, he put his cashew chicken on the café’s menu. It featured boneless, breaded chicken chunks swimming in a rich oyster and soy sauce gravy, topped with crunchy cashews and green onions, and served over a bed of white rice.
The filling, delicious dish was an immediate hit, launching the Leongs into the culinary spotlight.
A Family Affair
Soon, versions of David’s cashew chicken were served throughout the community. Diners, cafes, and restaurants all embraced the Asian American creation, adding it to their recipe repertoires. It became well-known not just in southwest Missouri but across America and even around the world.
“We’ve seen advertisements for cashew chicken all over the country,” said Ling. “My dad and younger brother went back to Hong Kong once on vacation, and a marquis in front of a Chinese restaurant there said ‘Springfield-style cashew chicken!’”
David, his wife, and their seven children worked hard to make Leong’s Tea House a success. The spot where cashew chicken was born stayed open for more than 30 years, and the iconic entree never left the menu.
When his wife passed away in 1997, David Leong closed the tea house. But in 2009, at the age of 90, he decided his break was over and went back to work. He and three of his sons, including Ling, opened Leong’s Asian Diner. They also founded a company to distribute the family’s sauces for retail sale so home cooks across the country could make their own authentic cashew chicken.
In 2013, the United States House of Representatives recognized Leong for his culinary contributions and military service. He passed away in 2020, just shy of his 100th birthday.
His sons still operate the diner, and business is still booming. The dish their father created remains so beloved in Springfield that the city’s minor league baseball team even adopted an “alternate identity,” changing its name from the Cardinals to the Cashew Chickens in tribute.
A Tasty Trail
While cashew chicken is the OG star at Leong’s Asian Diner, it’s also served at more than 70 restaurants across the region. A new trail focused on foodies pays homage to the entree’s culinary heritage and the mark it made throughout the area.
Springfield’s Convention and Visitor’s Bureau recently launched a Cashew Chicken Trail, allowing enthusiasts to sample it at nearly two dozen restaurants across Springfield. The self-guided tours have already become a big hit and highlight the different ways the dish is served.
The itinerary allows participants to try various recipes, some at traditional Asian restaurants, including Leong’s, and others at unlikely spots, including the Chicago Cheesesteak Company (for the “Springfield” sandwich) or even the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema. The trail, accessible via mobile passport, winds through several Springfield neighborhoods. People can check in at each participating location, earn points, and even win themed prizes.
Ling Leong, who still manages the diner bearing his family’s name, says it’s a delicious and welcomed way to celebrate his father’s legacy. Years after David first cooked cashew chicken, a new generation of fans has joined the fold.
“We went from being the first Chinese restaurant to have cashew chicken, now there’s dozens here in town that serve it,” he explained. “It’s nice to be recognized and that my father was able to come up with something that’s been so spectacular.”
